Susan Smith's excursion to Vermont and Lake Chaplain, in part accompanied by her school principal Roland Hills and fellow teacher Miss Brown, took place from Tuesday, August 3, 1866 and lasted until the weekend. Upon return, she remained at home on school vacation until September 2nd. Sunday, August 12th, the day after her return, Edwin visited her in Danvers. The next day she wrote to him, describing her trip.
Danversport, August 13th, Monday
Dear Friend.
I have just come in from the garden, having paid a visit to the blackberry bush and the pear tree (you know where they are) and was liberally rewarded with the ripe fruit which I found abundant. While there I thought of the visit made to the same place a week ago and was impressed quite forcibly with the change which one week's time have wrought even there. I wish you could take some of these nice pears which I gathered, they are much superior to those you tasted. You will by this time, I think, receive the impression that I am once more at home in which you are correct, and I thought I would write to you what I intended to say in Burlington but did not really have time to tell you much of my visit. I think I told you of our journey and safe arrival.
On Wednesday we attended some of the meetings which were wanting in their usual interest and so we made arrangements with some lady friends, whom we met there, to take a ride. We were furnished with a barouche, span of horses & driver, in the best style, at the very reasonable rate of $2.00 per hour. By this way we were able to see the most interesting places in the city. We halted at the college and went up into the observatory elevated 280 ft. above the level of the lake. The enclosed photographic view of Burlington taken from the college grounds will give you but a slight idea of our extensive view.) A scene of more beauty I never expect to see. The Green mountains on the east, the Adirondacks on the west; the lake stretching out north and south far as the eye could reach combined to make a most beautiful picture.
We were more interested in the exercises in the hall on Thursday, but it was so rainy in the evening that we remained at home. You probably received a line from me written on Friday just before we started on our excursion on the lake. The day passed very pleasantly; the steamboat ride was delightful; we left the landing at 10 o'clock A.M., & returned about six in P.M., stopping at Crown Point half an hour. I send you a bit of Sweet Clover gathered at that place. We did not go on to Plattsburgh, as we had quite enough pleasure in the first trip for one day. I thought of you many times and how much you would enjoy the day if you could be there. We saw little of interest in New York state, as we had not sufficient time to go far from the landing. This trip of course delayed our return home one day and not till Saturday morning did we find ourselves headed in that direction.
Burlington, Vermont's largest city, is situated on beautiful Lake Champlain. It nearly doubled in population in the1860s and housed about ten thousand citizens at the time of Susan's visit. With the opening of the Erie and Champlain Canals and Chambly Canal in Canada, Burlington, became an important hub where railroads and steam ships met. The city was also the home of the University of Vermont.
The school was founded in 1791, the year Vermont became the fourteenth state. In 1865, a year before these letters, the institution merged with the Agricultural College. "Old Mill" is the iconic campus building that houses the tower from which Susan viewed the beautiful lake and mountains. The building's cornerstone was set by Marquis de Lafayette, the French hero-general of the Revolutionary War, when he toured the United States in 1824.
Susan sailed south from Burlington, about forty miles down the lake as it narrows to Crown Point, on the New York shore. There stood the ruins of the forts, the first built by the French in 1731, and later by the Colonists. This was an important strategic location, fifteen miles north of the more famous Fort Ticonderoga.
She continues her letter.
We bade good bye to the city soon after seven and rode with only one change of cars till we reached Boston at seven P.M. Miss Brown stopped in Manchester, N.H. and I was left quite alone. I had just time to reach the eastern train and being behind time did not reach Lynn till eight o'clock; when the conductor said he thought I could make no connection with any conveyance for home. I was obliged to remain with Mrs. Hills over the Sabbath. I took the first train this morning for Danvers and was very happy to find your letter awaiting my arrival.
It is but little of all the much we saw and heard that I can tell you by writing, but I can assure you I enjoyed the trip very much and although tired feel benefited by it. It would have added to the enjoyment could you have been with us, but as you were unable to do so, I will feel that the time was not un-enjoyed by you at home.
Mr. Hills left Burlington for Chicago on Wednesday P.M. expecting to spend most of the vacation there.
Mr. & Mrs. Holroyd of Providence, Mary's sister and her husband came this morning and will spend a few days with us. I intend to make a week's visit in Ipswich, but do not think I shall go this week.
I was sorry to learn that you were compelled to take so long a walk on your return from Danvers. I was fearful that you would be late for the express train. I feel I was somewhat to blame. Will you excuse me this time? Perhaps I have written you quite as much as you will care to read and as it is rather late, will say good night. I hope I may hear from you soon. With many kind wishes I am very truly yr. friend,
S. Smith
It is some time before Edwin has the opportunity to read Susan's letter as he too is vacationing this summer. After business in New York City, together with his father and brother James, he sails up the Hudson River to Saratoga. He writes to Susan from there.
Crescent House Saratoga, New York
Thurs. Eve. Aug. 16th 10 1/2 o'clock
Dear Friend.
We arrived at this at about 8 o'clock this eve having spent most of the day on the Hudson River which we enjoyed very much. We left New York quarter before eight and arrived at Albany quarter past five in the P.M. where I mailed to you a description of the journey better than I can give you. The steamboat ride was very fine and the scenery most beautiful. It is a trip I have long wanted to take and find it even more pleasant than I had anticipated. The river is much wider than I expected and seems more like a lake a great part of the way. The weather was very fine - rather cool for comfort part of the way.
Yesterday A.M. it was quite rainy in New York but as we spent the first part of the day doing business that did not require us to be out much on the street, it troubled us but very little. The P.M. was very pleasant and we visited Central park - the extent and beauty of which must be seen to be realized - it is thronged by a vast multitude every pleasant P.M. by all classes, from the humble foot passengers to the most expensive livery.
It has improved much since I saw it last year. No labor and expense is spared to make it attractive.
I have enjoyed the trip thus far very much which will make up in part for the disappointment of last week. Tomorrow we shall start for Whitehall where James and father take the boat for Lake Champlain and I shall return home by way of Rutland and Fitchburg. If I could spare another day I should visit the lake myself but I must return tomorrow.
I expect to reach home about seven o'clock P.M. I have been told the scenery is very fine on the route I am to take. I have thought of you many times on the journey and am anxious to get home expecting to hear from you on my arrival. I hope to meet you someday next week but cannot decide when till I get home and see what plans my brother has made in my absence. You must pardon me for writing with a pencil again and I will endeavor to do better next time. James and I took a stroll this eve through the different Hotels and could not help feeling disgusted to see what slaves some of these people were to fashions and pride. They have a "hop" at Union Hall this eve. We thought best not to join them. I must close and with kind regards bid you good night. Hoping to see you soon I remain very truly your friend,
Edwin Fletcher
P.S. I shall decide that it is your turn to write.
Albany is ninety miles from New York City. Saratoga Springs is about thirty miles north of Albany. The year before these letters, the still-famous Saratoga Race track was opened, adding to the glamour of this popular resort town. Edwin is silent on his activities here, but there was much to do. Mineral springs were highly popular as was gambling. It's too bad Edwin isn't as descriptive of his travels as Susan Smith.
What he tells us of New York City however, is most interesting. Central Park sounds delightful. Mid-nineteenth century citizens prized their parks and walkways as they were often found out of doors in these pre-air condition times. Walking was a primary means of transportation, and promenading a leisure activity, often beneath trees we no longer see. No honking cabs, no exhaust fumes; only the clicks of horse's hoofs and the murmur of voices.
Beginning about 1900, three billion American chestnut trees fell victim to disease, and basically are no more. Another beautiful tree, the stately elm shaded many eastern parks while growing to more than a hundred feet. Some of these trees lived for two hundred years, but Dutch elm disease caused the loss of seventy-five percent of the seventy-five million. Even some of the birds Edwin and Susan surely saw, exist no more.
In 1866, a flock of an estimated three and a half billion passenger pigeons passed overhead. In the 1870s, a catastrophic decline began. The last bird died in 1914.
Different times, different sights, different attitudes. Remembered in art and letters